The Economic Forces That Turned Chicken Wings Into a National Obsession
The taste you think of as your own, for hot salty wings and a cold beer on a Sunday afternoon, was manufactured upstream of you: in a slaughterhouse and a cable-television control room, years before you ordered your first dozen. We tell ourselves we eat what we love. Mostly we love what the system had too much of.
Start with the story everyone knows, because it's a good one.
On the night of March 4, 1964, Teressa Bellissimo was running the kitchen at the Anchor Bar, a neighborhood joint on Main Street in Buffalo, New York. Her son Dominic was tending bar, and a group of his friends turned up hungry after the kitchen had all but closed. What Teressa had on hand was a crate of chicken wings. In 1964, a chicken wing was not bar food. It was a soup bone, the scrap you tossed in a...
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